Desenzano

 Ok. My evaluation of this town. It’s a nice place to stop. Maybe not three nights but two. Probably the best thing to do (which we didn’t) would be to rent a bike and head out the peninsula to Sirmione. We took the ferry and it was fun but I think, if you go, biking would be better. My take? Fun resort town (we hit it pre season) but not necessarily my cup of tea. We’re off to the Dolomites tomorrow (Trento and then Bozen) which will have more spectacular hikes so I’m excited about that. In the mean time here are a few Desenzano picture.

Sigh

 I’ve mentioned before about the “Vacation from Vacation.” A time when you just kind of collapse from the stress of planning and travel and let go. Well today ended up being that day. We were going to ride bikes from Desenzano to parts unknown but just couldn’t bring ourselves to get out of bed early enough this AM. We’re a little over 2/5th into our trip (two weeks) and we both sort of collapsed from the pace. This isn’t to say we did nothing, we visited the Castle in Desenzano, and walked along the shoreline both directions. According to my watch over seven miles. I think this is about the minimal daily walk since we started our vacation (sans airplane days). It was nice to have a slow day.

Sirmione

 We’re ferrying to a lot of little gems on this trip (Bellagio). Today was no exception we took the ferry over lake Garda to Sirmione. Lovely little place and I’d love to stay there. Had the best pasta of the trip there for lunch (I had spaghetti olio alio a pepperenccino and Fran had tagliatelle with bolognese) . Photos of the voyage (not the food) below:

No inflation in Italy

 Please recall my belt story from 15 years ago. Well I’m here to tell you there’s no inflation in Italy. 

10 Euros for a belt. Same as 2009.  Only with the exchange rate it’s now about $11.70 instead of $13.00

We interrupt this vacation for a thunder storm

 In Desenzano today. Easy trip from Verona. But:

Some times the rules are wrong (Don’t judge a book…)

 Had a very serviceable meal at Osteria Sgarzarie. It violates most of my rules about number of tables, menu in multiple languages, etc. Still it was a delicious meal with each course prepared well. Not a bad choice if you’re ever in Verona. And the biggest Negronis ever.  

Grilled veg

500g of great steak

Beef cheek with mashed potatoes 

A vegetable flan - starter

Big Negroni

Verona in Pictures

 Don’t feel like writing so here are a few photos from Verona. Would come again and spend two or three full days. 

Differences

 A few observations about when I first traveled in Italy 35ish odd years ago and today. Things that have changed:

• A table for the night at a restaurant. Table turning is a thing here (not all places but more and more).
• Asking "Permisso" when entering a store.
• Having to speak much Italian (everyone speaks some degree of English or uses a translate app).
• Travelers learning a few words of the local language to both show respect and grease the wheels of travel.
• Quiet respect for cultural differences. Americans, Brits, Russians, doesn’t matter, don’t seem to respect that cultures are different, they expect their cultural norms to be followed.
• Cultural diffusion - everyone wears tennis shoes and jeans. 
• Getting shamed for getting coffee with milk after noon. 
• Taking your receipt with you when you leave a restaurant.

Bergamo

 The city looked like it was going to be a bust when we arrived at the train station. Big, and while not dirty, industrial. We waited a while for a cab. It took us through the main part of the city not only up the hill to the Castle but back in time to windy Roman and Medieval streets. Our hotel, Gombit, is part of a refurbished historical site. Clean, modern, and with all the comforts. Not quite five start but darn close. The front desk staff are friendly and helpful. They got us reservations at Tanna, a local Osteria that had great food. The best of the trip? Not quite but in the top three for sure. Some photos of the city below.

Must Do (Eat) in Varenna

 Last hour in Varenna and I wanted to comment on the town itself and a great spot we found for dinner in Varenna, Il Cavatappi. 

I believe this town is likely in the Rick Steve’s guide. Don’t know for a fact but there are ton’s of loud entitled American tourists and the town itself is quite touristy. We stayed at Villa Cipressi, which is adequate. Friendly and helpful staff with spartan rooms. Most of the restaurants in town suck and cater to tourists. I suspect before Rick Steves (BRS from now on) the town might have been quite charming, but his book likely opened that gates to ton’s of old people aiming for that “adventure of a lifetime” and “Influencers” (lot’s of little girls posing with cameras in front of just about any object that remotely looks charming). Still if you walk outside the perimeter of the town (take a strenuous hike up the hill) it’s a beautiful countryside. Just don’t fool yourself into thinking you seeing the real beauty of Italy when in town. It’s a fabrication that maybe gives you ten percent of what Italy offers. So it’s worth a day visit to Varenna but plan on spending an hour in the town and seven hiking the hills around. If you want to spend two days get an all day pass to the ferries and explore some of the other towns along lake Como. Top this off with a nice dinner (see below).

Buried in the streets of Varenna, is the restaurant Il Cavatappi. It hits all the rules (less than 10 tables, menu in chalk etc). You’ll have to dig to find it and I strongly recommend reservations. They speak perfect English so no worries - call a few days ahead (they are closed on Tuesdays). The restaurant offers local wine and food in a slow food movement sort of way. Unusual for so touristy a town. It’s tiny and minimally staffed so don’t expect a focus on service, take your time. Because they are small get off your wallet and spent some cash, don’t go in for a salad and a glass of water - go in hungry and order a meal (one of the review complaints is they pushed us out when I went to eat but wasn’t hungry so I ordered a glass of wine - of course they did they need to stay in business and they are a restaurant, not a bar au vin). Our dinner included a bottle of Nebbiolo from a nearby vineyard, an asparagus flan, octopus, beef cheek, and a wonderful pappardelle with duck ragu. Proof below.

A lovely chocolate lava cake with gelato

Fran admiring the wines

Bolognese Sauce & Taglitelle

Beef Cheek with Potatoes

Octopus in chickpea sauce

An asparagus flan

A really nice local Nebbiolo